Texarkana sits on a line, and the plates show it. You hear different opinions on sauce and heat, but everyone agrees that smoke should lead. That push and pull keeps meals here interesting.

Blue Ember Smokehouse works when you want brisket with a clean, steady flavor. The slices are the point, so keep the sides simple and taste the meat first. It is a good place to recalibrate your idea of what a barbecue restaurant can be.

Forand Family Barbecue leans into comfort, the kind of Texas BBQ that fits a family table without much ceremony. Silver Star Smokehouse gives you another option when ribs are calling, especially if you are eating with a group. Split plates so you can compare without rushing.

Eat earlier in the day if you can, since the best cuts do not wait around. Keep a napkin handy and plan on a short walk after. If you are traveling, grab a link of sausage for later.