Up by Texoma, Sherman mixes courthouse formality with a ranch town appetite. The air up here turns crisp sooner, and that makes a warm tray of Texas BBQ feel earned.

Crooked Letter BBQ has the kind of counter service that keeps locals moving. Cackle & Oink BBQ fits when you want a casual meal with brisket and smoked sausage front and center. If the pit is humming, ribs can be the surprise of the day.

Magic Smoke BBQ gives you another option when you are coming through at odd hours. Take your food to a bench near the square, then wander the antique shops until the Red River drive feels close. North Texas portions travel well in a takeout box.