Up near the Red River, Paris carries itself like a small city that still believes in lunch hour. You can make a neat tour of smoked meat here without doing much driving.

Scholl Bros. BBQ is an easy entry point for brisket and the usual sides. Fireside BBQ, LLC can handle a family order when you want ribs, smoked sausage, and plenty of napkins. Gringos BBQ is another option when you want a casual counter and a steady pace.

Show up before the rush and order what is cutting well. A BBQ plate lunch is a smart first pass if you are trying to compare styles. Save room for a second stop later, because the town rewards a return.