Growth has been quick in Leander, but the hunger is old fashioned. New neighborhoods do not change what people want on a tray.

Southside Market and Barbeque brings a long Central Texas tradition into the north Austin orbit, with a style that keeps the focus on meat and smoke. Smokey Mo's BBQ is there for an easy brisket fix when you need something fast and predictable.

Order ribs if they look right, add smoked sausage, and eat it fresh. Texas BBQ works best when the tray is simple and the meal leaves you ready for the rest of the day.