Pine shadows stretch across the highway outside Center, and lunch tends to run on a slower clock. East Texas smoke can read sweeter here, especially when oak and hickory are in the mix. Arrive hungry and let the counter guide you.

Darrell's Bar B Que is a steady choice for brisket when you want Texas BBQ without extra fuss. Chaps Bar-B-Q can cover smoked sausage and a simple tray that shares well. If you want a quick BBQ plate lunch, keep it to two meats and call it.

Eat earlier if you can, since sliced meat goes first. Hickory smoke can lean sweet, so sauce stays optional. Take the long way back through the pines and let the plate settle.