Courthouse square lunch stop habits still hold in Brownwood, and smoke tends to follow the working day. You can eat quick and get back on the road, or sit down and let the tray cool slow. The best move is to arrive hungry and order what looks right at the counter.

Underwood's BBQ can cover brisket and ribs in a steady barbecue restaurant setting. Lemons' Bar-B-Q is another counter when you want smoked sausage and a simpler plate. Smitty's Bar-B-Q rounds out the options when you want to compare seasoning without driving far.

Keep the tray focused. Pick one sliced meat, then one second meat, and stop there. Oak and mesquite both make sense in this part of the state, so the smoke can read a little stronger. Eat early for the best cuts, then take a slow loop past the lake and back.